This past Monday and Tuesday we participated in Carnival. We've been hearing about this event and planning for it pretty much since July when we first arrived! And it was quite a spectacle and a great party!! I'll keep this post as the text and then do another with just pictures.
Really and truly it started shortly after Christmas - they have "fetes" every weekend (and even every night the week before) leading up to the big event. These are essentially concerts which feature the Soca Stars performing their hits for this year. They are held at school grounds, Country Clubs, pretty much anywhere - the licensing bureau even hosted one in their parking lot! They usually have all inclusive bars (although we went to one 'cooler' fete where we could BYOB) and food and are always accompanied by VERY loud music and lots of dancing. The music is very energizing and it's hard not to jump up and down and wave your hands.
The Friday before Carnival there was a traditional parade right by my office which included kids dressed up in more traditional costumes. It was nice to see this and also nice to have a local beside me to explain it all. There was also some other traditional events over the weekend where they crowned the Kings and Queens of Carnival and the best pan bands, but we didn't attend these.
The actual parading of Carnival started on Sunday night / Monday morning with an event called J'Ouvert. This parade started around 4:00am and went to sun rise. It involved getting covered in mud and paint then dancing through the streets (with loud music) and drinking. We decided to take a pass on that as it sounded like a lot, but many people say it's the most fun event of Carnival and only play that - even some of the older people in the office!?
So Monday was essentially the "practise day". We were told to show up at 11 am and only wear a portion of our costumes. We met our "band" (that's what they call the group we were "playing mas" with... mas = masquerade) and paraded/danced/drank(Stu only)/roasted/had fun through the streets until about 5pm. The music trucks kept playing music until about 8, but we'd had enough and only a couple of our friends made it until the very end.
The music trucks are the heart of the band - they were three full size flat bed trailers which each had a generator, amps and large banks of powerful speakers. The three trucks were remotely linked somehow so they were all playing the same tunes - and they played what seemed like the same 15 to 20 songs for 2 days VERY loudly. To these same songs we walked, danced, wined through the streets of Port of Spain.
There were also drink carts - these were small carts that supplied us booze (and water) for the two days. We all paid the equivalent of about $100 CDN for all the drinks and food for two days and they didn't run out! Even with us starting at 6:30am (err, I mean SOME people started drinking at that hour, not me of course.......) These were pushed by 4-5 guys and you'd hop on, fix yourself a little cold libation and then hop off.
Tuesday was an early day - the band was assembling and starting at 6:30am. This is the one time of the year when things are organized and run on time in this country and when Paul and I showed up at 6:45, the band was already well down the road. Kate decided that her and the mini-trini would rest up for the morning and meet us around lunch time. Tuesday was the judging day and there were three judging stations set up around Port of Spain to which each band was supposed to pass to show off the costumes. Our band is more into the party aspect and less into trying to win "Band of the Year" title. This usually goes to one of a small group of bands that are led by designers who make very elaborate themes and costumes.
So, our band only went through one of the three judging stations - and this was a good thing as there was lots of standing around and waiting at this stage. After the judging station, much of the costumes were taken off and it was down to more dancing/partying through the streets. And if it sounds like a lot of that, you're right - and after two full days I was tired (and drunk!).We managed to stay out there until about 5:00pm. Then it was home for some pasta and bed.
It's all over now, and life is returning to some sort of normalcy. It was an amazing experience to see and be part of. We don't think it was the best time of our entire lives (which many people claim), but it certainly was fun. What's amazing is it seems to really be what this country is all about, and unfortunately the only thing this country is about. They have so many problems and issues in everyday life (lack of water, massive traffic, backwards customer service), yet thousands of people parade through the streets for two days and every detail is worked out and runs smoothly. There were several large stadium type structures as well as small store type buildings that were constructed in the month leading up to it, yet I've yet to see a watermain contract get awarded since I've been here?!
The owner/operator (she's originally Canadian) of a wonderful hotel in Tobago told us over Christmas "If they just put as much effort into the rest of life as they do Carnival, they could make something of themselves". Unfortunately we've now seen how true this is...... but it's certainly was a great party!!
Kate and our friend Lisa:
